Southern Utah Gardening: Growing strawberries in home gardens
Nothing is better than a home-grown ripe strawberry! When it comes to growing strawberries, there are three types of strawberries generally available to home gardeners.
June-bearers produce loads of fruit for about 2–3 weeks beginning in May here in southern Utah. Sometimes they will produce a small, late crop in the fall if we experience warm October weather.
Ever-bearers have three crops of berries. These crops produce in late spring, summer, and early fall. Ever-bearers are desirable for their long fruiting season, but the total yield is lower — about half that of June-bearers at a time.
Day-neutral varieties permit flowers to form in all-day lengths. Day neutrals can fruit from July through September in the first year of planting and for five months during the second year. The berry size is naturally small and further decreases during summer heat.
High production does require more commitment of time and labor. They must receive regular irrigation, fertilization, and pest control to keep them healthy and productive.
Soil and site preparation
Strawberries grow best in full sun in a sandy loam soil with a pH of 6.2 but will tolerate a wide range of conditions. Avoid sites infested with perennial weeds and areas where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants were grown within the previous two years; these plants harbor verticillium wilt that can destroy strawberry plants. It is best to prepare at least two months prior to planting strawberries by incorporating organic matter, sulfur (pH test determines if necessary), and fertilizer (five pounds of 4-6-2 for every 100 square feet) into the top 2–4 inches of soil.
Varieties
There are many varieties available, depending on the breed of strawberry desired. Some of the best June-bearers I’ve tried are camorosa, allstar, jewel, sequoia, fletcher, late glow, and sparkle. Ever-bearing varieties recommended include Fort Laramie, ever-sweet, and fern. Albion, tribute, and tristar are day-neutral cultivars that have excellent flavors and good production with any variety. When purchasing potted strawberry plants, look for healthy growth that is free of leaves looking wilted or browned in the center of the plant.
Planting and spacing
Location of strawberries can be key in southern Utah. Afternoon shade helps production, but well amended, well drained soil is crucial. Plant strawberries in early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. Dig the planting holes deep enough to accommodate the entire root length vertically. Excessively long roots should be trimmed to 4 inches if bare root. Firm the soil around the plant, making sure the crowns are covered to the original level; do not cover too shallow or too deeply. Space plants 6 to 12 inches apart. Since day-neutral cultivars do not create many runners, plants can be grown closer together. After runners become 10 to 12 inches long, they can be trained along the row or bed, spaced 4 to 8 inches apart. Gently press the runner into the soil and cover to a depth of 1/2 inch. Do not cut the runner from the parent plant; this is its lifeline until it develops its own root system.
Irrigation
Strawberries should have moist soil from either rainfall or irrigation. This is necessary for plant vigor, fruit size, and runner production. Increase the water when plants begin to bloom. Overhead watering when strawberries are near ripeness can cause them to rot, so drip irrigation is best at this point.
Mulching
Applying mulch immediately after planting helps to control weeds, conserve moisture, and keep berries clean. It also prevents low-temperature injury to the crown when applied in the fall. Place mulch over the plant tops in November (if your temperatures are around 20 F); use approximately one bale of straw per 50 linear feet of row, or 1 to 1 1/2 inches of soil conditioner or pine needles. Next spring when the forsythia are in full bloom (early March), remove about half the mulch and place it in the alley between the rows to suppress weeds, or toss it into the compost heap. Floating row covers may also be used to suppress weeds and protect against pests.
Fertilizing
Use a well-balanced slow-release fertilizer when blossoms appear, such as a 4-6-2. Biannual compost application in the fall when mulching them for the winter and again in the spring before flowering is best. Put a generous inch all over the ground. When first planting your strawberries, use a good amount of compost to enrich the soil as they will need nutrients to grow vigorously.
Pests
There are a few pests to be aware of when growing strawberries that love the sweet taste just as much as we do and often beat us to the punch. Earwigs and sowbugs seem to feed on strawberries just before they are ripe. A sprinkling of spinosad bait will generally stop them in their tracks. Diatomaceous earth is another choice but needs to be applied often and when soil and plants are dry and reapplied once wet. Birds can be another issue. Loosely covering with a mesh or shade cloth works well to deter birds.
Harvesting
Pick the fruit when it is fully ripe (one or two days after reaching full color), leaving the caps and stems attached. Keep harvested berries out of the sun, and keep them unwashed in the refrigerator up to 4–5 days.
Strawberries in pots
From personal experience, growing strawberries in those cute “strawberry pots” with the pockets on the sides can be frustrating. It’s difficult for water to reach the side pockets as water wants to travel down rather than out. A preferred choice would be in whiskey barrels, large pots, or raised beds. Whatever you choose, keep the soil moist for best production.
Time to get those hands dirty and plant a patch of strawberries!
